Each year, Tudor’s new watch announcements at Geneva’s Watches & Wonders event are some of the most widely anticipated. And for good reason. Rarely does the Swiss manufacture have a quiet year, consistently adding references to its collections that both innovate while also intersecting with stylistic trends. So it’s no surprise that the brand’s headline launch for 2024 is an all-new GMT variant of its ever-popular Black Bay 58 collection featuring a new in-house movement. Launched in a single colorway with just two strap options, it’s a toe-in-the-water that is standard for Tudor, a brand known for taking measured steps in its new release practices.
Like all members of the Black Bay 58 family, the new GMTs size in with a 39mm case. Importantly, at just 12.8mm thick, the new BB58 GMT is a slimmer affair than both of Tudor’s existing GMT offerings: the Black Bay GMT and Black Bay Pro. At 14.6mm, they have each drawn criticism from fans hoping for a slimmer option. With the new 2024 pieces, these wishes have been granted. In addition to new dimensions, a redesigned crown that sits closer to the case ensures added wearability.
Regarding color options, you can have the new Black Bay 58 GMT in any color — as long as it’s black. Incorporating gilt accents, Tudor incorporates one of the definitive qualities of the first Black Bay 58 watches from 2018: clean monochrome design spiced up with golden bezel numerals along with matching metallic hands, and lume surrounds. In 2024, these design features reappear but take on a new appearance thanks to the bi-color, bi-directional GMT-style bezel with what’s become known as the “Coke” motif thanks to its red-black scheme.
This being a GMT watch, special attention must be paid to the features that make it so. Quizzically, the GMT hour hand is not color-differentiated from the other indicators which could make at-a-glance timetelling more difficult. That said, Tudor’s re-design choices help. Thanks to a redesigned seconds hand which yields its signature “snowflake” shape to the GMT hand, timekeeping on the go becomes easier. The seconds hand now takes on a “lollipop” shape that harkens back to Tudor’s early dive watches.
Inside, Tudor introduces its new true-GMT caliber, the MT5450. Both METAS and COSC-certified, the MT5450 promises to operate on a highly accurate 6-second/day (-2/+4) variation. While power-reserve has dropped slightly to 65 hours (compared to Tudor’s other GMT offerings which feature the caliber MT5652’s approximately 70 hours endurance) many will find the upgraded accuracy a fair trade-off.
Like other members of the Black Bay 58 family, the new GMT models are water-resistant to 200m. However, this technical language has been removed from the dial. Collectors have long remarked on the amount of text printed on some of the brand’s watches so the simple two-line “GMT Master Chronometer” language promises to be a welcome change. Retained from previous versions is the use of Swiss Super-LumiNova and — for better or for worse — the Black Bay family’s riveted bracelet. Distinctly, the new GMTs incorporate for the first time in the Black Bay 58 sub-family, Tudor’s rubber strap. First seen on last year’s Black Bay 54, this proved to be a popular option thanks to high-quality construction and a premium “T-fit” clasp which offers a full 8mm of sizing range without the use of tools.
It wasn’t so much a question of “if” this watch would come along, but when. As a slimmed-down GMT under 40mm, the new Black Bay 58 GMTs are a welcome addition to Tudor’s lineup. Year after year, the brand has proven an ability to capitalize on watchmaking trends while not becoming a mere follower, and the arrival of this 39mm true-GMT Swiss diver for under $5,000 USD sets the tempo for other watchmakers.
The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT will be available soon from Tudor authorized retailers. The bracelet version (reference number M7939G1A0NRU-0001) is priced at $4,300 USD and the rubber strap version (M7939G1A0NRU-0002) is priced at $4,400 USD. Learn more at the brand’s website.
