This is an evolved Doxa and one of the nicest reasonably priced chronograph dive watches we know of. The Doxa SUB 300T-Graph (SUB300 T-Graph) is inspired by vintage Doxa design cues and faithfully asserts the tool-watch nature of the famous diving timepiece maker. There are three versions of the SUB 300T-Graph and each is under $3,000 being part of a limited edition. Oh, and if you want one you can only get them online as far as we understand it.
That’s right, if what I hear is true, then Doxa was among the first historic watch makers to decide it was best for them to bypass retail sales channels altogether and go with a direct-to-consumer sales model. If you want a Doxa you’ll have to go to their website. It isn’t the most sophisticated site in the world, but at least you don’t need to speak with a human being if your wish is to shop in your underpants at 2am (the new luxury buying experience).
Without the crown and pushers, the Doxa SUB 300T-Graph is 44mm wide–with them it is 48mm wide. In steel, the watch is an imposing size, but Doxa does produce smaller timepieces. For a diving chrono, I happen to like it a lot because everything is legible on the dial. Versions come in both the black “Sharkhunter” variant, as well as the original orange dial color. Another interesting option on the Sharkhunter variant is the option of getting the original-style rotating diver’s bezel or a more modern version with a sapphire crystal insert. The latter is a bit more money but only nominally so.
Those people with any familiarity with Doxa will recognize the 1970’s styling of the dial in regard to the hands, markers, etc… It is a look that is not without its charm but is at heart very much a functional design–this is especially clear on the black and white dial. The hands are perfectly legible, and everything is covered in luminant. Purists will no doubt opt for the orange (Professional) dial, and while I think it is great if you spend a lot of time around boats, the black (Sharkhunter) dial might be a bit more friendly for regular wear.
As a dive watch, the SUB 300T-Graph is water resistant to 300 meters (most diving chronographs are only water resistant to 200 meters), and you can even use the chronograph pushers when they are unscrewed at a depth of 100 meters. It is uncommon to have diving chronograph watches because of the fact that if you used the chronograph underwater you will allow water in the movement. Only a few chronograph divers actually allow for underwater operation. The case also has a helium release valve and given the overall bulk of the piece, doesn’t feel too thick at about 17mm.
For years I’ve been curious about the original Doxa rotating bezel. Unlike most bezels it has two scales and thus two rows of numbers. These move at the same time and one is used as a standard 60 minute timer, and the other is a decompression table in feet so that you know what depth to be at as you rise slowly, if you’ve dived low enough to need decompression to avoid the bends.